Day 43, Two sunken ships and a fury smuggler…

My route today took. My route today was meant to take…me from Colchester down the river Stour / estuary to Harwich. Then across to Felixstowe and onto Ipswich.

The Stour is not good for sun-worshipers and sandcastle designers but is a haven for naturists. No not that sort…bird watchers…oh you know what I mean, men dressed in camouflage with binoculars…

Tarmac turns to this…

It was a nice day, not cold like yesterday but sharp enough to let me know that it’s not the best time for a UK cycle tour. The villages were… as I’d expected. I know that sounds disappointing which was not the case but they weren’t like yesterday’s villages in Essex. So let’s fast forward to Harwich because that’s where it gets interesting.

Covid rules on this water fountain, maybe

Dovercourt bay, in Harwich…and beach were lovely. Colourful beach huts and groynes galore yet no one under 50 was out parading themselves in this weather. Instead poochadoodles galore, all barking way above their weight at waves, other dogs and cyclists.

Where’s Wally…
My bed for the night.
Groynes… you could almost have a beach each, maybe

As I turned the corner along the sea wall wall two massive shipping tankers caught my eye… ok two massive shipping takers blocked out the horizon. Love of hate them they are incredible feats of engineering.

Big ships

So my plan was to get the passenger ferry across to Felixstowe…

The ticket office was open…

Cape cod next?

“One man and his bike to Felixstowe please”. The lady honestly just stared at me. “This is the right place to buy a ticket isn’t it” I asked. Again the reply was not forthcoming… I smiled.

“Ferry sank” she said.

Aha, right, brilliant

Ferry pontoon. No ferry

Now I don’t mind a good bike ride. You already know that though don’t you, but I don’t really want to take the exact route back. Which was the only way, so I jumped on a train…

Now before I leave Harwich and / Felixstowe there is one other thing than perplexed me….The train was called the Mayflower and there were loads of posters and Mayflower material all around Harwich… Now I though the mayflower sailed from Plymouth to the new world – i.e. the Americas… so where does Felixstowe and Harwich fit in? I researched further. Google. Wiki…The mayflower definitely set sail from Plymouth (1620) and its passengers /

High and Low lighthouse acted as a course guide into Harwich Harbour. built in 1818 and later featured in a Constable paining.

Constable painted a lot around here… but never painted the mayflower…

pilgrims, definitely set off from Plymouth too. Sadly only half returned but…Harwich is over 400 miles away… did the remaining pilgrims then walk to Harwich? I know the boat was scrapped in Plymouth. I can’t see why the boat would sail from Plymouth to Harwich then back to America…oh I don’t know… anyway all a bit pointless all that wasn’t it?

Right where am I? Back in Ipswich. It was still early so I extended by ride across the Orwell bridge. A bridge I know well from sailing in my youth in Aldeburgh. It was gruesome in the wind and there were stark reminders everywhere for people having trouble with life…


bit tight and 43metres up
190m long and completed in 1982 after 2.5years of building at a cost £23million
Ipswich from the Orwell bridge

In all a good day. 35ish / 50ish miles and Aldeburgh tomorrow. I can’t wait


Over and Out

Published by Hastily made adventures

Just trying to cycle through the carnage...

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